We've been there
Beachy Bucerias and Beyond
The small town north of Puerto Vallarta that will steal your heart
That iconic line from Hotel California seems rather fitting here. You can checkout any time you like, but you can never leave!
Sure you’ll eventually have to abandon the bubbly little Mexican town of Bucerias when your vacation comes to an end, but in your mind, you will never leave.
The big sister city of Puerto Vallarta has a lot going for it, but beachy Bucerias, 20 minutes up the road, is where it’s at for me. It hits all the markers when it comes to a sun destination vacation: fantastic beaches, accommodations to fit your mood and of course, the most important factor, taco stands.
Lay Your Head Down
We checked in to the new La Posada de Bucerias at No. 59 on Calle Francisco I. Madero, a residential stone road that runs parallel to the beach. I’m pretty sure I could have lived in the courtyard, claiming the comfy loveseat, drifting off to the sound the water fountain, watching the fish splash around in the pond and staring dreamily through the pink bougainvilleas that top the fence.
But our room turned out to have a few more amenities, like two bathrooms, two decks, a washer and dryer and a mega fridge that came mighty in handy for keeping those Pacificos cool.
Fuel Up
Strolling down a quiet street in search of breakfast, watching fisherman pull nets in the Bahía de Banderas—now this is how every morning should be. We find two favorites in town. La Cocina de Jorge serves up homestyle huevos rancheros with a pile of warm tortillas on the side, excellent lattes and plates of fresh fruit with hotcakes for rock-bottom prices. Sweet Thing Bake Shop & Café steps things up a bit with a sky-high plate of banana nut pancakes, fresh orange juice and a display case that will convince you dessert is a necessity.
A month in Bucerias wouldn’t be enough to explore the culinary offerings. You can opt for Rico’s Tacos on the street corner or have a seat the upscale Mark’s Bar & Grill. To further complicate your choices, you can head out of Bucerias, to the nearby town of La Cruz de Huanacaxtle and have a seat at Frascati. Start with the fritte misto appetizer that includes plump shrimp and calamari served tempura style with fried parsley and zucchini on the side, plus three sauces—habanero, chipotle and garlic.
Chillin’ Out
Bucerias beaches are arguably the best in the bay. The quiet water makes it a popular (and safe) spot for travelers with wee ones in tow, although on a windy day, you can have some fun in the waves.
Walk the beachside strip and take your pick from any of the seaside restaurants including Adauto’s on the Beach and El Chivero Restaurant. A bucket of five cervesas sells for less than $10 at most places. As long as you order a couple of drinks and a snack, the proprietors of any joint will be happy to have you lounge in one of their chairs with an ocean view. All. Day. Long.
Retail Therapy
If you’re in the mood to sharpen your negotiation skills, head to the markets near the beach on the south side of the main drag, Alfredo V. Bonfil. Make your best deal on a mucha lucha wrestling mask or a set of blue margarita glasses.
I wanted to completely redecorate my house after stepping into Jan Marie Boutique at 56 Lazaro Cardenas, a strip on the south side of Bucerias that hosts shops, restaurants and art galleries. I brought home an onyx and marble bowl. I really wanted to add a couple of Day of the Day figurines, a complete set of talavera tableware and that giant blown glass chandelier.
Dessert?
The tacos stands and food carts start lining Alfredo V. Bonfil in late afternoon. Among them is a churro cart. Get your sugary, deep-fried treats for three pesos apiece (roughly 25 cents). Or cross the town square to the ice-cream shop on the corner that sells popsicles, called paletas, chock full of fresh fruit and exotic ingredients. Go for the coconut leche (cream-based) version.
Massage Time
The beaches on the south end of Bucerias are home to pop-up massage outlets. Get a one-hour rub-down, on the beach with an ocean view for $20.